This year St. Patrick's Day was extra lucky for me-- it fell on a weekend and I got to spend it with my friend Haleigh on the Buffalo River! (Was that too much?)
Haleigh divides her time between her family's big cat refuge in Eureka Springs,
Turpentine Creek, and the fabulous
Circle Yoga Shala in Jasper, a self-described "school for yoga, creative movement, and self-inquiry" that hosts yoga retreats and teacher training. Haleigh teaches yoga and manages the Shala's organic farm, and I jumped at the chance to stay with her for a night and also be within a short drive from some of Arkansas' most magnificent hikes.
I was able to take off work on Friday, and hit the road as early as possible to make the three hour drive to the Shala, outside Jasper. Haleigh and I quickly had lunch (a foraged salad!) and set off for our first destination: Indian Creek.
Neither of us had ever been before-- I had attempted once before but had to turn back, as the Buffalo River was at flood stage. But today, it was gorgeous and sunny out, with just a little chill in the air. We reached Kyle's Landing campground in Haleigh's Subaru by 1 p.m. and set off up the trail.
I wrote a little about Indian Creek in one of my past posts-- it's iconic, not only for its scenic quality, but also for how dangerous it is. Supposedly the National Parks Service records more injuries here than on any other trail in the Buffalo River area. Plus, it's not really a trail-- called a "primitive trail," it's more like a scramble up the creek bed. Not to discourage anyone, though-- if you're in shape and up for a little adventure, go for it!
 |
| Haleigh cooling off |
We worked up a sweat quickly, and Haleigh jumped in the first deep pool we encountered on the creek. I wasn't quite that brave, and mostly just waded around. Around here we saw a couple of hikers heading out, but other than that we managed to have the place to ourselves for the day. What a treat. There was just enough water flowing to make the waterfalls pretty, but not so much that the creek wasn't navigable-- perfect conditions.
 |
| Copperhead Falls |
 |
| Indian Creek Falls |
After a couple of hours hiking up the creek, we reached the point where most folks turn around (including us today)-- the canyon walls seemingly close up, resulting in a spectacular waterfall I think is just referred to as Indian Creek Falls. Arkansas Cave/Tunnel Cave is here as well, and on really wet days it forms a waterfall too, though it was only a drip when we were here. It was pretty obvious how the cave got its name: it looks exactly like the shape of a backwards Arkansas. (From inside the cave it's the regular shape of Arkansas, but entrance to the cave is strictly forbidden now due to the white-nose syndrome affecting bat populations.)
 |
| Haleigh with Arkansas/Tunnel Cave in the background |
From here, a steep climb involving ropes is required, as well as crawling through a hole in a bluff wall, to reach the famed Eye of the Needle. I didn't get a picture, but from down at the creek level you could just glimpse the Eye through the trees many, many feet above us. We decided to save the Eye for another day, and just enjoy the amazing features already surrounding us. Plus, due to the steep canyon walls, it was starting to grow dim in the creek, and we decided we better make our way back. We had dinner that night at the Low Gap Cafe-- HIGHLY recommended!
 |
| Obligatory photo of me in front of Indian Creek Falls. I never know what to do with my hands! |
We thought we were being extremely clever by planning to hike out to Hawksbill Crag the next morning for sunrise, thinking we'd have the place to ourselves for once. Hawksbill Crag (or Whitaker Point, as it was originally called) is extremely popular and known as "the most photographed place in Arkansas." It's a must-see, and as a native I've been countless times, but its popularity has notably increased over the years. A few years ago a friend and I drove over from Fayetteville to hike Hawksbill on a gorgeous, sunny autumn day... the road was choked with cars parked on both sides of the road over a mile back from the trailhead. We turned the car around.
Anyway, that's the exact thing Haleigh and I hoped to avoid this morning as we sleepily prepared mochas in thermoses to go and made the trek up Cave Mountain Road in the dark. We were both stunned to see 3 or 4 cars had beaten us to it! At least it wasn't more. We went ahead and started down the trail, hurrying to get to the crag before sunrise.
I didn't realize it was the first weekend of the U of A's spring break-- several college kids had camped out on the trail and were just waking up as we passed by. We got to a nice little spot to watch the sunrise over the crag, just in time. I gotta say, pretty magical.
 |
| Sunrise at Hawksbill Crag |
More and more people were heading down the trail though, and as it got lighter we decided to go ahead and move on. The Hawksbill Crag trail is only about 2 and a quarter miles roundtrip, and not very strenuous, so we decided what the heck, why not Glory Hole, too?
By this time it was probably 8:30 a.m. or so, and there were a good amount of folks at the Glory Hole too. But when you're like me and live three hours+ away from these beautiful places, sometimes you just gotta deal with the crowds. There wasn't much water at the Glory Hole today, but it was fantastic in its own way, as always.
 |
| At the top of the Glory Hole |
 |
| The Glory Hole from below |
 |
| A trail leads away from the waterfall along this bluff a ways. |
By the time it was all said and done, and we were getting back to the Shala, Haleigh and I had hiked more than eight miles by noon! Possibly one of my favorite ways to spend a day. In fact, with the delicious food, beautiful scenery, and great lady friend companionship-- possibly my favorite way to spend a weekend! Thanks Haleigh!
No comments:
Post a Comment